How to select Cross Country Ski Gear

Courtesy of Wilderness Sports (Unfortunately now OUT OF BUSINESS)

HOW TO CHOOSE CROSS-COUNTRY SKI GEAR

Cross-Country Skiing includes a whole bunch of different sports! That is one reason why there are so many different models of skis and boots. This handout will focus on lightweight skis and exploring skis. Whatever decision you make will inevitably involve some trade-offs (putting up with a particular drawback in order to get a particular advantage). While you can go practically anywhere on any model, you will have much more fun if you get ski gear which will work best for the kind of skiing you do most often. Therefore, before you buy any ski gear, the first and most important consideration is to decide on the category of gear you are most interested in. This is determined primarily by where you plan on doing most of your cross-country skiing. Some general categories include:

"Ski Touring" This is skiing on snow-covered forest service roads and gentle wilderness trails. This is the most popular category for those just getting started in cross-country skiing here in Washington, particularly if you haven't done much downhill skiing and are more interested in easy, casual recreation than the adventure of backcountry exploring. Trails are fairly easy, provided you have torsionally rigid 75 mm boots, and there are literally hundreds of places here in Washington to go ski touring. The skis you buy will have “positive” molded bases which allow you to grip while going uphill, yet glide well on flat and rolling terrain.Ski touring gear is very versatile and can be used for track skiing (although it will not be as fast as track gear) and exploring (although it will not offer as much control as exploring gear).

"Exploring" This type of skiing includes skiing on gentle to moderate snow slopes and skiing wherever you want through the woods.This kind of cross-country skiing offers fewer crowds and a greater sense of freedom and adventure. It requires slightly better skiing ability than recreational ski touring or groomed track skiing as well as gear that is stronger and more stable. For this type of skiing you will generally buy skis that are shorter and slightly wider than the traditional long, skinny track and touring skis. The boots you purchase will have leather uppers that are stitched to the sole or possibly a lighter plastic boot. This kind of gear is widely regarded as the easiest to control and is also extremely versatile. It is therefore well suited for learning a basic, beginning telemark turn if you so desire. It can also be used for ski touring on forest service roads.It can even be used for basic overnight snow camping, or extremely light backcountry telemark and lift-assisted telemark skiing provided the slopes are not icy and you ski at moderate rates of speed.

Not everyone will fit neatly into one of the above categories. Other factors besides your past skiing experience and ability level that will influence your choice of ski gear include how often you plan on going skiing, whether you'll be taking lessons (highly recommended) and whether you are more interested in a ski that grips well for going uphill or will be fast going downhill and in the flats.

HOW TO CHOOSE THE SKIS

The First Decision you should make when choosing skis is whether you want metal-edged or non-metal edged skis. Most cross-country skiers here in Washington prefer half metal or non-metal edged skis for track skiing and ski touring.They are much less expensive and lighter in weight, which allows you to travel farther with a less effort.Also, when combined with a plastic or sturdy leather boot, half metal and non-metal edged skis are actually easier to turn and control than most metal-edged skis when skiing at slow speeds on not frozen snow.Finally, non-waxable non-metal or half metal edged skis will grip much better than non-waxable full metal-edged skis because the metal edge itself tends to interfere with the gripping ability of all non-waxable bases. Skis with partial metal edges are a great compromise for many people.

Which is best for you? If your interests tend primarily toward track skiing, touring, or exploring and your primary goal is recreation and having fun enjoying the winter scenery in comfort, then consider non-metal edged skis.On the other hand, if you are most interested in making turns, and have maybe done some downhill skiing and want to ski more challenging terrain and conditions (i.e., telemark skiing) then consider metal-edged skis (please ask for our handout on metal-edge skis). Most skiers start with a non-metal edged pair that they use for most of their skiing and then buy a metal-edge pair later which they use for skiing on more difficult terrain and in more challenging snow conditions.Consider skis with partial metal edges for ski touring and exploring if you will frequently encounter hard or icy snow conditions.

The Second Decision you'll need to make is whether you want waxable or non-waxable skis. The overwhelming majority of skiers here in Washington prefer non-waxable skis.This is because we have very difficult waxing conditions and non-waxable skis are virtually hassle free. Ask our staff for more information on this subject.

Which is best for you? If you are just getting started, or if you are interested primarily in track skiing, ski touring, or exploring, then you should buy non-waxable non-metal edge or partial metal edge skis. On the other hand, if you are convinced that you want metal-edged skis for telemark skiing then please ask for our handout on metal-edge skis!

The Third Decision you'll face is whether you want good gripping skis for going uphill or good gliding skis for skiing in the flats and when going downhill.

Most recreational skiers here in Washington will choose to give up a little glide in order to gain some extra grip. This is because even our easiest ski trails involve going up some hills and without grip you might not get anywhere. Moreover, you can usually increase a skis glide by applying "MAXIGLIDE" to the base (or by pointing your skis in the “fall-line"). However, there is very little you can do to increase a ski's grip if it is inadequate (besides simple side-stepping up the hill or purchasing climbing skins or kicker skins). However, if you plan on taking lessons to improve your technique and get the maximum weight-transfer or leverage on the ski...and if you plan on skiing mostly in gentle rolling terrain where a lot of grip isn't needed then a pair of good gliding skis might be your best bet.

A non-waxable cross-country ski has a patterned section on the base of the ski underneath your foot that resembles fish scales and allows you to grip while skiing uphill. If you want good gripping non-waxable skis for recreational or exploring ski tours, then make sure you get "positive" bases such as the Trak Omnitrak, or Karhu Omnitrak. Positive bases are made by molding the gripping pattern OUT from the base. These bases enable the skis to grip better than “negative” bases in the warmer, wetter, more consolidated snow conditions that are most common here in Washington. Negative bases, made by cutting into the base, are quieter and faster, however, they require aggressive technique in order to get them to grip in dense or compact snow conditions. You will tend to slip and slide backwards when trying to ski uphill with negative base skis in Washington and are much more likely to fall over and flounder around in the snow.

The Last Decision you'll need to make is whether you want wide skis or narrow skis.Skis vary in width from the wider telemark and mountaineering style skis (85-100mm) to extremely narrow track-only racing skis (44 mm minus). In general, we recommend skis that are about 85 mm in width at the shovel (near the tip) for track skiing or easy Ski Touring. The wider ski allows for a somewhat easy sense of balance and stability. In addition, it increases flotation while gliding your way through the untracked snow, but is also narrow enough to use in machine-made ski tracks. 65-70mm width shovels are even more stable and are ideal for exploring.

Other desirable ski characteristics include:

a) "torsionally rigid tip" - so the ski can edge when traversing up or down hills. Check with the "twist" test . . . Grab the tip of the ski with one hand and the middle of the ski with the other. The more it resists twisting, the better it will edge. Many skis sold in the Northwest are not torsionally rigid enough for our Northwest snow conditions and widely varied terrain.

b) "custom mounting" - Boots will vary from pair to pair. This creates the need to custom mount each pair of boots to each ski, ensuring that the heel of your boots will always be centered on your skis. Most stores use a jig similar to those used to mount downhill skis. You will ski better and with greater ease and comfort if your ski gear is custom mounted instead of jig mounted. Always insist on custom mounting.

c) camber or flex - the amount and smoothness of the flex is a key hidden element which sets good performing skis apart from "noodle", "slug", or “board-like” skis. In general, the flex distribution is more important than the actual amount of flex. In addition, skis that are too soft will edge poorly, chatter at speed, and tend to wash out at the end of a turn. Skis that are too stiff are often difficult to turn at lower speeds. In addition, lighter weight people will have difficulty making them grip in compact snow conditions.

The following chart lists the best ski models for cross-country ski touring & exploring skiing in Washington snow conditions along with their characteristics and suitability for various uses....

MAKE/MODEL	$	BASE	METAL EDGE	DIMENSIONS		GRIP	GLIDE	TRACK	TOUR	EXPLORE
Trak	120		No	59-49-56	Ideal		Ideal	Ideal	Ideal	Good
Peltonen Eagle LS	99		No	69-60-65	Good		Good	Good	Ideal	Ideal
Karhu Outland XT	125		Partial	65-55-60	Good		Good	Good	Ideal	Ideal
Karhu Lookout	160		Full	73-60-67	Good		Good	OK	Ideal	Ideal
Karhu Catamount	195		Full	85-70-80	Good		Good	Poor	Good	Ideal

SKI SIZING

Most sizing charts for the traditional longer length cross-country skis are based upon the snow and terrain conditions they have back east and in Norway. Because they have cold soft snow conditions, they need relatively longer skis to stay on top of the snow. Also, since their terrain is relatively gentle, they are less concerned about grip and turning ability that might require a shorter ski. By contrast, here in Washington, we have harder, warmer snow conditions that reduce the need for the flotation of longer skis. Also, we have terrain with higher slope angles, which increases the importance of climbing and turning ability provided by shorter skis. Also, non-waxable skis need more contact with the snow in order for them to grip than do waxable skis.

As a consequence, skiers here in Washington are generally happier using slightly shorter skis (approximately 5 cm for traditional longer length skis) than the "charts" in most catalogs might indicate. This also means that the "Wrist" Test and "Paper" Test are not as valid an indicator of size as they are back east or with waxable skis.

Your ski size is based predominantly on your weight and may be modified slightly based on your skiing ability, height, and the steepness of terrain you like to ski on. If you are on the borderline between two sizes, you should choose the shorter size if you are just starting, not very athletic or aggressive, and are interested in getting maximum grip. Conversely, you should choose the longer size if you are a good skier who skis often and wants more glide or if you do a lot of overnight tours and want more flotation in new snow conditions.

A revised sizing chart, adjusted for our more rugged terrain and wetter snow conditions, is as follows

(ASK FOR HELP WHERE YOU BUY SKIS TO PURCHASE THE BEST SIZE SKI FOR YOU!):

SKI TOURING

*WEIGHT*	*LENGTH*
100 - 130	180
115 - 140	190
125 - 155	195
140 - 185	200
155 - 200	205
185 - 235	210
200 - +	215

EXPLORING

*WEIGHT*	*LENGTH*
100-130	160
125-215	175
180- +	190

Your ski boots are the most important piece of gear you will buy in your ski package. Because even our easiest cross-country ski trails can be moderately challenging here in Washington, it is very important that your ski boots exert enough control over your skis to keep them pointing where you want them. The cross-country boots we recommend have all leather uppers for waterproofness, comfort, and support. The soles will be either injection molded, stitched, or bonded plastic. The wider the connection point is where the boot attaches to the binding, the more control your boots will exert over your skis. This is why we recommend the widest connection system available referred to as "75 millimeter." Unfortunately, many beginning skiers are unaware of this need for control and wind up with boots with a narrow connection point. These boots, originally designed for racing, exert very little control over the direction of your skis and thus, when used outside of a machine-made, groomed and set track, allow your skis to wander and get tangled up. This, in turn, causes most people to flounder around and fall down a lot. Specific narrow-connection brands include Solomon (S.N.S. and S.N.S. B.C.) and New Nordic Norm (N.N.N. and N.N.N. B.C.),

Even with 75 mm boots, it is essential to seek out "torsionally rigid" boots in order for them to exert adequate control over the skis for ski touring here in Washington. You can test a boot's "torsional rigidity" by grabbing the toe of the boot in one hand and the heel of the boot in your other hand and giving it a twist. The more the boot resists twisting, the more control it will exert over the skis. If you can easily twist the boot like a tennis shoe or a street shoe, the boots are no good. Be aware that many stores and resorts sell and rent mostly flimsy boots for track skiing.

If you're interested primarily in track skiing and touring on forest service roads and/or gentle ski trails, then injection-welted boots will be adequate when matched with appropriate skis. However, if you want to explore through the woods making your own trail or tend to have weak ankles, then get the slightly heavier, sturdier stitch-soled or injected nylon (plastic) boots. They give you much more control over your skis while skiing in the backcountry.

It should also be noted that lightweight injection molded boots should not be used with metal edged skis. Even if the warranty would still apply, a blown-out boot in the backcountry is too serious a danger to be gambled with.

The following chart outlines the boot models most suited for skiing here in Washington and their ideal usage....

Once you have decided to purchase cross-country ski boots, the most important next step is to try them on and decide which model is most comfortable for your feet. Make sure you try them on with the socks and footbeds you will be using while skiing in them. Once you have found a pair that is comfortable and will be sturdy enough to do what you want it to do, buy it before someone else does! Your boot is your most important piece of equipment!

We recommend synthetic liner socks and Fox River or Bridgedale outer socks. These outer socks are very thick and will not only help insulate the foot and prevent frostbite but they will also pad and protect the foot and dramatically reduce the chance of getting blisters out there.

When fitting the boots, make sure to get the boots a little on the big side. You should have plenty of room to wiggle your toes. Variable lacing techniques will help you retain maximum comfort while still providing control over your skis. Performance footbeds (either “off the shelf” or “custom made”) will also enhance comfort as well as greatly increase the boots performance.

The three most important factors one should consider when buying cross-country ski gear are: durability, safety, and control. The importance of the bindings to these factors are often overlooked.

The two most important characteristics to look for in cross-country ski bindings are:

1. Compatibility with your boots... how well do your boots fit into the bindings and

2. Bail Strength... how thick is the metal piece that presses down on the boot, does it have a reinforcement brace, and how well is it attached to the rest of the binding. Because we are concerned about safety, we recommend only bindings with REINFORCED or RIVETED BAILS. Be aware that bindings with thin, flimsy bails such as the Rottefella Start and Troll Trim can be hazardous and should be avoided. Even the Troll Standard and Rottefella Master bindings have no reinforcement brace and are therefore not as safe as the and Rottefella MT 12-15 bindings, or the riveted Rottefella Super Tele and Voile Telemark. Also, if you will be using stitch-soled or plastic-soled boots and doing a lot of backcountry exploring, or telemark skiing we highly recommend bindings with riveted bails. This is the best way to reduce the chance of a binding coming apart or breaking in the backcountry.

The following chart lists the best bindings for cross-country skiing use here in Washington together with their most appropriate usages:

Avoid: Rottefella Start, Rottefella Silver, Troll Trim, Troll Standard (inadequate bail strength and potentially very hazardous.

MAKE	$	MODEL	CONSTRUCTION	TRACK	TOURING	EXPLORING	BC TELEMARK
Alpina	>110	Cascade	Injection molded	Ideal	Good	Fair	Poor
Alico	>150	Skitour	Stitched-soled	Good	Ideal	Ideal	Fair
Karhu	>125	Convert	Injected nylon	Good	Ideal	Ideal	Poor

MODEL	$	TYPE	BOOT SOLE	BAIL	TRACK	TOURING	EXPLORE	B/C TELE
Voile 3-pin Cable	>99	75mm	Injection Molded	Riveted Cable	Ideal	Great	Fair	Poor
Supertele	>35	75mm	Stitched-sole or Plastic	Riveted	Great	Ideal	Ideal	Great